Man, so much has happened in the last few days - I dont know where to begin. First, someone in Missoula send a msg to Len at Open Road that his email address ([email protected]) isn't working. I need a new one or a new way to get the updates to him.

So here I am in a country where everybody starts the day out with fresh cappuccino and hot pastries, the weather is sunny and 80F (I'm currently rebuilding my bikers tan, thank you), the people are beautiful and passionate (no love yet, Fred, but there are 2 weeks left in Italy!), and the fashion seems to be the tighter the better. If there was a little trout fishing thrown in, it'd be heaven.

The trip out of Rome started out with a new twist for me. I headed out on the oldest existing road in Europe, the Appia Antica (see pics). It's beautiful, cobbled (some original stones in here? They are really worn and grooved!), and I averaged about 10km/hr on this stuff! Plus it tends to follow the high ground (best for navigation) and so does a lot of up and down. But it was really impressive. Lined with old (old!) structures, so many that the archeological society can only do so much to protect and/or develop them. It does so much more for educating about the Roman way of life than do simple pictures and descriptions. But on Saturday evenings its also a popular meeting place for young couples. Young gay couples, as I soon realized. (I wondered why those 2 guys in the car where so interested in where I was going and staying!) I only THOUGHT I was being checked out before- this was the real thing. So it didn't take me long to turn off it and get back onto the main road, although I wasn't sorry to leave those cobbles behind. And for those of you who are familiar with lots of riding, touring adds a new dimension to spitting between your arm and leg. Eeew, not on the panniers!

This place is seemingly packed with contradictions. Antiques and the modern (especially the modern) are revered, everything in between reviled. Beaches are spotless, but roadsides are trashheaps. Passions and tempers are fast, yet life is generally slow. You can buy spear guns in pet shops (!), and XXX porn in all news-stands. I am the ONLY person in the whole country without a cell-phone. The drivers are the worst in the world for following regulations, yet rarely (VERY rarely) do I even get honked at, and they all pull over to use their phones (albeit in the worst places possible, usually).

One of the most exciting things in the world is merging with a pack of Italian traffic that has just been released from a red light. You hear this buzzing/screaming from behind and are immediately swallowed whole by a pack of youngsters on scooters, zipping all around you as you try desperately to navigate to the side of the road (the side of the road is considered anything 3 inches or less from the right curb - anything more and you're fair game for being passed on the right by a scooter). It's exhilarating and terrifying, but considered part of the norm here. I am wondering what life will be like a couple of months from now. Here, I sometimes get stares that suggest I'm as unusual as a warthog on wheels - what will India be like by comparison, then?

In 4 days I've traveled about 350km from Rome to Napoli and am currently in a hotel (Hotel Milton!) in Napoli, exploring the city and Pompeii (tomorrow), giving my poor knees a rest (at least my legs are coming back), and considering taking the ferry to Sicily for a couple of days, before heading straight across Italy to Brindisi for the ferry to Greece. I've scheduled 2 more weeks for all this - should be plenty of time. The first night was spent camping wild in a little side road/track, as i misjudged time and distance and couldn't find a hotel for less than $100. Since then its improved immeasurably. I shower regularly, camp in Italian campgrounds, and eat very well. But not in incredible amounts - the food is packed with calories (cheese, oils, meat, sugar). Italian campgrounds are like dirt parking lots for miniature RV's and camping trailers, with trees scattered here and there. And most of them are closing for the season, even though the weather is wonderful. But they all have 3 things: hot showers (coin-operated at 50 cents for 3 minutes), cappuccino, and fresh croissants. I'm getting spoiled (and caffeine and sugar addicted. Even more so.).

The beaches and blue-green sea are beautiful. Olive groves, vineyards, and eggplant fields are everywhere, although nothing over an acre or two, and often only 10-20 trees or vines. And this country must use eggplant to glue its pave together, for the the volume that I've seen. The pave - if I were a professional biker, I'd avoid Paris-Roubaix like the plague it must be. I'm sure it lasts forever, but I'll take chip-n-seal over it any day of the week. Roadies are everywhere, and some actually look fast. I spent 1/2 an hour riding with a 54 year old fan of Lance Armstrong who told me he intends to stop riding at 82. (Why 82, I have no idea...) I missed by 30 minutes seeing a youngsters crit around a small town square in Latino, including some rollerbladers. According to a local, most towns have a cycling society office, dedicated to promoting racing. Colnagos and Fondriest's are common (I wonder how much they cost here?), as are low end bikes. There aren't many in between, unless you count the 20 year old Italian frames the older guys ride. The Olympics coverage is 3-6 hours a day and quite comprehensive. Italy is doing quite well this time, so its especially popular.

So, what else? I can't believe its only been a week - it seems literally forever, although the days themselves are now going by very quickly. I'm in a good groove. My Italian is coming along, although it is a tangible relief sometimes to open my book and realize that I don't have to interpret for a change. I love being able to communicate better, but its hard work sometimes. I don't envy the immigrants who are struggling just to speak the language, let alone earn a living on the streets. They are working harder than I ever have, just to make the next meal. We Americans have it pretty good. I'm also realizing that, as a tourist, I have it very good, compared to how it will be in the coming months. I'm nervously anticipating India, and am therefore taking advantage of the showers and comforts available here.

It might be a couple of weeks until my next commo, as internet cafes are as rare as American accents in the countryside, here in the south. I'll probably try and wangle some time at an expensive hotel soon. If not, expect to hear from me in Brindisi (maybe) or Greece. I miss everybody. Write to me - I love (and need) the contact - and I'll respond when I can. And if you know anyone that wants to be added to the email list, send their address to me.

All the best, Mark